My stage 12 starts in Shanghai, a city of 25 million inhabitants on the East China Sea. More precisely, at the ‘Bund Bull’. This bronze bull weighs a proud 2.5 tonnes and is a symbol of strength, courage and growth. It looks full of energy and determination, and it is exactly this dynamism that I take with me on my journey. The route takes me around 1500 kilometres across eastern and central China, through major modern cities, historic sites and rural regions to the heart of China to the ancient silk city of XIAN, where my very first stage in 2018 began.
For the first 80 kilometres or so out of the mega-metropolis, I am surrounded by houses, houses, houses &#8211; to the left and right of the road and without interruption. Even when I thought I had left the urban area behind me, the next blocks of flats, industrial plants or newly built neighbourhoods are already waiting. What particularly amazes me is the silence. Almost all the cars and motorbikes are electric and hardly any engine noise can be heard. Even more impressive is the discipline on the roads. The traffic flows smoothly and orderly, no hectic rush, no jostling, even in dense city traffic everything remains calm and structured.
Shortly before the industrial city of Changzhou, the idyll is over. Firstly, heavy rain is coming down and then I get a puncture (rear, of course) despite the puncture protection tyres. After an initial repair and a change of inner tube, I make it to the hotel. There the air is out again&#8230;somehow a shard has got lodged in the tyre and I have to go to a bike shop the next day, where I can also have the rim tape replaced. Of course, such defects are not really desirable and the repair takes time (a suitable bike shop is usually not around the corner&#8230;and this time I had to take a taxi 20 kilometres into the city centre). The main thing is to get new equipment, even if it&#8217;s late&#8230;now everything is running smoothly again.
My breath gets stuck here in Yangzhou&#8230;. As soon as the sun goes down, the city is transformed into a glowing work of art. Street lamps are reflected symmetrically in the water and illuminated bridges lead through the darkness like corridors of light. The contrast between nature and modern light architecture is particularly impressive and the night-time atmosphere is simply magical and crazy to me.
It gets incredibly hot over the next few days. I try to cycle in the shade wherever possible and even cycle for kilometres on the wrong side of the road. Of course, I also drink a lot of fluids. The air conditioning in the hotel room doesn&#8217;t work. The room is sweltering with heat. This morning, I feel really dizzy and everything is spinning around me. I assume I&#8217;m dehydrated, stay in bed for the time being, drink plenty of fluids and manage to recover to some extent by lunchtime.  As it is very cloudy today, I dare to continue my journey and make it to my destination just before the rain.
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The extreme heat is now followed by very heavy, pouring rain for the next three days. I pull through with the ‘Bund Bullen Kraft’. However, the gears are giving me a hard time. The electronics have stopped working and I&#8217;m now riding everything in the same gear.  In the evening, I can&#8217;t find a bike shop that can help me. This surprises me, because a Shimano gear system is at least partly made in CHINA and I thought a replacement shouldn&#8217;t be a problem. But I am sent from bike shop to bike shop and as night falls, I give up the search. Now I&#8217;m hoping that my top mechanic from Biel will be able to help me with his knowledge via WhatsApp. I am very lucky. Although he is on holiday, WALE helps me out. Thanks to his instructions, I can now manage a few gears on the big disc. In three days&#8216; time, I&#8217;ll be hunting for a suitable bike shop again in Zhangzhou, a city of 15 million people.
No sooner said than done: But here, too, I am unsuccessful. I continue to ride the remaining 500 kilometres with severely restricted gears.
And now the flat tyres are making themselves known again. I&#8217;ve just hit a wire twice today and the puncture protection is obviously of little use. These constant punctures can really get on your nerves&#8230; At least I find some new material in town.
The destination of my Tour de CHINA is now a fact. I reach the capital of the ancient Tang Dynasty, home to the world-famous terracotta army and a place of enormous historical significance. My triumphant entry into XIAN is through the EAST GATE. I have now crossed the whole of CHINA from east to west. What I still want to do here is ride &#8211; on my bike, of course &#8211; along the rectangular city wall, which is around 14 kilometres long and 14 metres wide. But just like in 2018, there is no way to ride along the city wall on a private bike. So, I ride on the lap of honour by the rented steel donkey. Afterwards, I have a few more days to explore the magnificent metropolis as a tourist.
The return journey begins excitingly. It&#8217;s pouring with rain, and my taxi service arrives late. Unfortunately, the driver can&#8217;t fit the bike box into his small car. I have ordered a large limousine, but that doesn&#8217;t help now. Thanks to my time reserve, I arrive at the airport on time. The next hurdle awaits me here. Apparently, my bike box is too big. I&#8217;m surprised, since I&#8217;ve checked in larger boxes with other airlines before. The standard for Hong Kong, where my luggage is transferred, is exceeded and the transport is refused. I start to sweat, trying to find a solution. The back and forth makes me nervous. People are waiting at the back, and I can&#8217;t get anywhere at the front. In the end, I manage to agree with the ground staff to cut up the box and make two pieces of luggage out of it. They help me diligently with repacking and finally everything can be processed.                                        Conclusion: I never lose, either I win, or I learn (I usually learn).

Shanghai nach Xi’an